May 23, 2004

Yoshino No. 1 - Food of the Gods

The Taipei Times has a nice piece this morning on Yoshino No. 1, a variety of rice that was grown exclusively in Taiwan for Japan's Emperor Hirohito about 70 years ago. Yoshino No. 1, said to be the best rice in the world, is extremely difficult to grow. Wind, rain and fertilizer all affect cultivation. Harvesting is critical, if it is too late, the taste changes and the rice is only fit for chicken feed.

Yoshino No. 1, unlike other rice varieties, is said to have an appealing smell and unique taste when it's properly prepared. It has a sweet flavor that stays on the palate even after a lot of chewing. Its grains are rounder and plumper than other varieties and are crystal clear, with a white, heart-shaped dot in the middle. Japanese growers claimed the shape of the dot was similar to the sun rising on the nation's white flag and thus cherished the rice even more.

Cultivation actually ceased in World War II, as the cost of production exceeded returns. It was not until 1969 that a Hakka farmer named Peng Yong-chuan reintroduced the seeds. Today six farmers, all mentees of Peng, know how to cultivate this rice. Peng had this facinating anecdote to share:

...when the rice was harvested, Japanese officials would pick a dozen or so local young Japanese girls to pick and package the rice. These young girls were required to take a bath and change into new clothes prior to performing their duties, as a token of their respect for the emperor. They would peel off the husks on the rice, by hand, one by one. No Taiwanese girls were chosen for the job, perhaps because of security concerns.

A traditional Japanese ceremony would be held to bless the rice and to plead for special blessings from the emperor. The handpicked 10kg or so of Yoshino No. 1 rice was then shipped from Hualien to its final destination -- the Emperor's Palace in Tokyo. Whatever was left over was then presented to the Japanese Colonial Governor's Palace in Taipei.

Now that is special rice. Where is rice grown in the United States? Mostly (80%) Arkansas, California and Louisiana. While the U.S.produces only 2% of the world's rice, it is a leading exporter, sending 40% to 60% of its crop overseas. To learn more, check out the USA Rice Federation.

Posted by torque at May 23, 2004 6:36 AM | TrackBack
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